Rigging an Anchor for a Fishing Kayak

A Shallow-Draft Boat has Advantages over Wading or Shore Fishing

© Kelly Smith

Dec 23, 2008

Fishing from a kayak has its own unique rewards – it's green boating at its best for one thing; no motor to emit greenhouse gases. Also, it only draws an inch or two of water so its easy to fish the skinny water on the flats or the wetland estuaries when the tide goes out bringing the bait fish to tailing reds or trout.

It's got limitations as trade offs, though. Having a narrow beam, it's hard to fish from a kayak standing up, limiting visibility for sighting. And with the boat's geometry, it's difficult to access any part of the boat that's not right in the cockpit whether it's a sit on top kayak (SOT) or not.

So what's the Limitation with a Kayak Anchor?

If the paddler is bird-watching, wade-fishing, or diving, there's really not much of an issue. Just tie off next to the cockpit on the side opposite the paddle-keeper. But for fishing, it's different. After weighing anchor, the watercraft will drift with the current or the prevailing breeze.

This will put the boat perpendicular to current or breeze. The angler only has only two choices:

1. The first is casting over the bow (side wind).
2. The second is casting to the side (uncomfortable).

The Stern is the Right place to Tie Off the Anchor

This puts the kayak parallel to the wind or current and is beneficial for two reasons:

1. The fisherman has more casting options: casting downwind or to either side (great for fly fishing).
2. More importantly, since the stern anchor line is angled away from either three of the casting directions, the chance of the fishing line fouling in the anchor line is minimized.

The Solution

As mentioned above, movement out of the cockpit is limited, especially when it comes to a task like getting over the fishing tackle and ice chest in the stern well. The obvious solution is a trolley from the cockpit to the stern.

The angler can let out as much anchor line as needed for the water depth and tie off to the trolley. Then it's simply a matter of transferring the anchor line to the stern and securing it. When it's time to move on, the procedure is the opposite.

Material Needed for Rigging

The rigging is fairly straight forward. It consists of:

• Two stainless steel pulleys, or “U” shaped hardware
• The appropriate size and strength braided nylon or polyester rope
• Some kind of float
• A carabiner
• Hardware for attaching the pulleys or “U” hardware
• A stainless steel cleat (optional)

Rigging the Kayak Anchoring System

1. Attach the pulleys or “U” shaped harware, one on the side of the cockpit on the side opposite the paddle-keeper, the other close to the stern where it's most convenient. For example, the Heritage Redfish uses heavy-duty pop rivets for everything else, so that's what's appropriate for that model.
2. Run the rope through the pulleys and connect with a secure knot. Be sure to fashion a loop to attach the anchor line to. Feel free to experiment with stainless steel hardware if desired.
3. Attach the cleat near the cockpit if desired, or not, if a minimalist approach is desired.
4. Attach the carabiner to the float.

Using the Anchor Trolley

1. After arriving at the sweet spot, drop anchor playing out the appropriate length of line.
2. Tie the line to the carabiner that's attached to the float.
3. Clip the carabiner to the loop on the trolley line.
4. Pull the line until the anchor line reaches the stern and secure it with the method of choice (with the cleat or some kind of clamp on either side of the trolley).
5. Hook the fish.
6. If it's a big one, it's going to take the kayak for a sleigh ride. Quickly pull the trolley line to the cockpit and release the carabiner; the float will make it possible to return and pull up the anchor.
7. Catch and release or stow the catch in the ice chest.

Heritage Redfish Fishing Kayak

Fishing Kayak Stern

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